I arrived in Tuscany 33 years ago at the age of 19. From my first days in the region (Italy is divided into regions which are like our states, La Toscana is one of them.) I instantly felt at home, to the point where I often thought that I was an Italian born by error in America. My sojourn lasted only three years and, sadly, I've never lived there since. I did come away with my wife, Gabriella., from Florence, a good knowledge of the language, and an old farmer's house in the hills northeast of Florence. Since 1968 I've had the good fortune to live constantly overseas returning every year to our home near Dicomano for vacation. I offer this preamble so that you will understand that while I'm obviously passionate about Italy I cannot really call myself an "expert" on my adopted country. In short, please understand that all that follows are very personal views. They should be held up in the objective light of other (undoubtedly more informed) sources and your own desires and preferences.

First, a note about history. In the arc of ages there have been magic moments of creativity. The philosophers of Athens and composers of Salzburg are two examples that come to mind. As great as these moments were in the enrichment of man they pale in comparison to the creativity that poured forth during the Renaissance in Florence. We are all familiar with the great artistic creativity of da Vinci and Michelangelo. Equally great accomplishments were wrought in literature, the sciences, music, architecture, and commerce. For this latter, a relatively obscure subject, how many of us today realize that the Letter of Credit, sales on consignment, banks, and consolidated shipments were all inventions from Florence?

Today when one travels from Milano to Palermo there is no shortage of renaissance art to be seen. What we don't realize is that the vast majority of it was created by, copied from, or inspired by (through students and imitators) Florentine artists. There were others, I have no wish to slight them. My point is that Tuscany, and in particular, Florence, was the source of this avalanche of creativity. In short, what we know today as "Italian Culture" is, in large measure, a reflection of the magic of Florence. Reflect for a moment that only 2% of the Italian population spoke "Italian" as their mother tongue when the modern Italian state was created in 1861. (Italian "dialects" were, and are, spoken by the rest of the population). Today that figure is over 60%. How could this tiny sliver of the Italian nation so dominate the rest of the country linguistically, and every other way? Keep this question in mind during your trip and we'll discuss your views upon your return.

When I first went to Italy I expected to find historical sites behind little white picket fences with a neat sign stating so-and-so had been here and done such-and-such, as we see erected and preserved by the D.A.R. and historical societies here in the states. I could not conceive of a country where one is besieged by historical structures every two blocks and, in some cases, every building. To preserve Italy's creative heritage would necessitate the removal of its population and putting the whole country under glass, literally. The down side of this is that you will see examples of art unrecognized, unappreciated, and deteriorating. The positive is that you will be able to "live" the lives of these icons of the Renaissance much more closely. You can walk down the streets, enter the buildings, and sit in the pews where Michelangelo, Giotto, Dante, and so many more passed (I'm dying to add Vivaldi but must confess, he was from Venice, not Tuscany.). Hopefully your budding Italian and innate perception will allow you to ascertain that the same kind of proud (never arrogant), rough, and so very independent tribe continues to populate Tuscany today.

Now, please get out your map of Tuscany. A 1 : 200,000 is adequate. I take it for granted that you are healthy and in decent physical condition. If not let common sense moderate any of my suggestions.

Florence: Notwithstanding too many tourists and often miserable weather (usually too hot or too cold and always humid) Florence remains the center of any visit to Tuscany. I have included a copy of a web page as one source of information. I'm sure you've already referred to many others. Use them to find out, about Gli Uffizi¹ Gallery, the Pitti Palace, Michelangelo's home, the Boboli Gardens, Il Ponte Vecchio, etc. etc. During a week's stay spend at least two days discovering this incredible city. Walk everyplace. This is helped because half of the downtown is now blocked off to traffic. Also check opening hours and working days of museums and other points of interest. Holidays, odd days off (like Monday), strange operating hours, and, of course, lunch (see more on this crucial subject below), can ruin the best laid plans.

Lucca/Pisa: Both of these are about 50 miles to the west of Florence and about 15 miles apart from each other. Leaving early in the morning one can go and come on the Autostrade Firenze-Mare (A 11) or make a loop going through Empoli (renowned for its hand-painted terra cotta dishes) (an interesting side trip is to nearby Vinci, birthplace of you know who, with a little museum containing working models of all his inventions) and Pontedera (still the home of Vespa motor scooters) and returning through Pescia (site of the National Flower Market), Montecatini Tertne (This is the home of famous thermal springs. Montecatini Alto on the hill behind Montecatini Terme is a jewel. It's also a good excuse to have a drink and take in the view.), Pistoia, Prato (the wool textile capital of the world).

Pisa is of course the more famous of the two cities but a visit to Lucca will soon show why I consider it to be one of three crown jewels of Tuscany (Siena has to be the third). In Pisa visit the Leaning Tower and its Basilica but dedicate the rest of the day to Lucca. We've all seen walled cities, but not like this one. Forgetting for a moment the twelve enormous buttresses on its comers, this wall is 60 feet wide sufficient to accommodate two sidewalks, two lanes of oak trees, and a two lane road for cars. Today the cars are banned. Leave your car and walk this city. Again get a proper guide book to visit its more notable treasures. As I walk the city I love to look in the windows of the more notable palazzi and see the marvelous painted ceilings. Another favorite of mine is to climb to the top of the tower of the Palazzo Guinigi. You can't miss it, it's one of the tallest towers in town and it's the only one to have trees growing on top it. The view of the city is unparalleled. Lucca is known as a music center (it hosts the Cherubini conservatory) and, with luck, you might be able to catch a concert of chamber music in one of its famous palazzi.

Tour of the Marble Quarries: Head west out of Lucca on the road to Camaiore. (Actually the road is found on the north side of Lucca and then bends westward) and follow its gentle course upward. A couple of miles before you arrive to Camaiore you'll crest Monte Magno. Park at the top and take in the view of the valley below and the beginning of the Alpi Apuane to the right. For me it's one of the loveliest yet dramatic scenes in all of Tuscany. Then head down through Camaiore (time permitting there's a very spectacular side trip up to Casoli above Camaiore) to the coast and turn north (there are several coastal roads including an autostrada) to Massa. (I don't want to complicate matters but if you're an opera buff, a visit to the wonderfully preserved home of Puccini at Torre del Lago 5 miles to the south on the shore of Lago Massaciuccoli might be in order.)

Turn northeast and follow the road UPPPP. Before starting up the mountain, stop at any of the marble factories in Massa to see how they saw through 20 ton blocks of marble. Climbing is slow because you'll continually want to stop and take in the views. As you near the top of the mountains, you will see men who appear about the size of flies, scrambling over the blinding white marble surfaces, rigging their pulleys to cut through, what appears to be, an inexhaustible supply of this precious rock. As you pass the top of the road you'll be near Monte Altissimo (about 5000 ft), the site where Michelangelo came to select his own marble for his sculptures. As you drop down the other side, you'll pass through Casteinuovo di Garfagnana and Bagni di Lucca (This was a haunt of such English Literate as Byron, Shelley, and the Brownings.). Both towns are jewels in their own right. At Bagni di Lucca, turn south to Lucca following the east side of the Serchio River (there are roads on both sides). At the village of Mozzano, stop and walk over the Ponte del Diavolo (Bridge of the Devil). Let me just say it's the most remarkable 700 year old bridge you've ever seen. Continue down to Lucca and home.

Siena and area: In spite of its fame, Siena is still more of a town than a city. After all, it's population is only 50,000. Not only is Siena beautifully preserved, it is free of cars. Again, get the proverbial tour book for all the things to visit. The best of all? Go down to the central Piazza, the Campo dei Fiori, site of the famous horse race, Il Palio and have a cappuccino at an outdoor table of one of the many bars² and just take in the atmosphere. Three nearby towns deserve mention.

Montepulciano is a medieval hill town east of Siena that has two huge attractions. One is that it's "relatively" undiscovered and in mint medieval condition. The other is that it sits on top of a hill covered in grape arbors that produce a wine called Vino Nobile. Until the 18th C., this was the private reserve of the Pope. When you taste this wine, especially the riserva, you'll see why the penalty for anyone caught swiping a jug was death.

San Gimignano: Yes, it's beautifully preserved and justifiably famous for its towers (more than a hundred of them). This town is on everyone's tour. Unfortunately it's a tourist kiosk from stem to stern.

Volterra: I'll confess I haven't been to Volterra in years. When I used to go there, it was still "relatively" undiscovered. This town has it all: Etruscan, Roman, Medieval, and Renaissance buildings with a marvelous Roman amphitheater and Etruscan tombs thrown in for good measure.

Valley of Mugello: Tired of running and want to spend a day close to home? Although only "over the hill" from Florence, the valley truly has not been "discovered". I know, I've been going there for nearly three decades. Some suggestions:

Dicomano: Take a walking tour down both sides of the Comano River on the footpaths and cross Dicomano's own Ponte Vecchio. Also follow the cobbled alley from the river (ok, stream) up to Piazza Buonamici and turn back to the center of town on the covered sidewalk. Market day is Saturday and is an experience in itself.

Vicchio: Vicchio earned its place in history when she bore a son named Giotto. Giotto's home can be visited just west of town and is worth the visit. Giotto was discovered by another famous artist name Cimabue. The story goes that Giotto was drawing a picture next to the bridge when Ciimabue came by, recognized the caliber of the young man's work, and pronounced that he would be Florence's next great artist. He was right. Anyway, there's a little sign on the side of the road indicating where to go to see this small but very famous bridge, still used daily and in excellent condition.

Borgo San Lorenzo: The central part of the city is well preserved with parts of its original wall still intact. It's well worth a visit and a walking tour.

My "turf" is from Borgo San Lorenzo to San Godenzo, 10 kilometers east of Dicomano. My current passion is running (I say "current" because my original passion was racing bicycles which is what brought me to Italy in the first place. Today my travel schedule has forced me to choose running.). I can safely say that I have run every trail in this 400 km area, most many times over. Strange, but the shear natural beauty of the Magill Valley hits me square in the chest every day I go out ... I trust the same will happen to you. Be adventurous, follow the dirt trails up into the hills, and just suck in the beauty. You will wonder no longer why Grotto is a child of the Magill.

I have written the foregoing using personal preference and the realization that you have a very short time in Tuscany. there is sooooo much more to see: Portovenere, Perugia, The coast south of Livomo, Castiglioncello, the Isola d'Elba, the Chianti area, Bibbiena, Arezzo, and the list of personal "favorites" that I've left out continues. Please forgive me.

Incidental Notes:

Weather and Clothes: It will perhaps surprise you to realize that Florence is farther north than Minneapolis or Boston, in fact it's about the same latitude as the northernmost tip of Maine. Being surrounded by the Mediterranean, the Italian peninsula's climate is far more moderate than Maine or Minnesota, yet, be prepared for potentially very chilly and wet weather in the fall.

La Figura (view): Italians care far more than Americans how they are perceived by others. Especially when chilly weather arrives, they tend to dress in fine wool clothes with classic lines. What I'm trying to say is that you'll blend in better in downtown Florence in slacks, dresses, sweaters, and jackets than sweat suits and similar apparel. Having said that I notice that clean, pressed jeans are becoming quasi acceptable wear across the age spectrum.

Italian Eating: Generally, Italians eat a light breakfast consisting of a caffe or cappuccino with a pastry early in the morning. This may be followed by a light snack halfway through the morning. Lunch is the big meal. At home or in restaurants it is served in courses one after the other with a change of plate for each course. The full gambit is the antipasto (ham, salami, melon, cheese, olives or similar hors d'oeuvres), il primo (the pasta dish), il secondo (main course: meat, fish, or fowl), contorno (vegetable dish is served with the secondo), insalata (salad), frutta (fruit - its very normal just to order a pear, apple, peach etc. by itself), dolce (sweet), and a caffe' followed by a liquore. The whole meal is usually washed down by wine (you will be surprised what moderate drinkers Italians are) and water. Of course you are free to limit yourself to the primo or secondo and whatever else you want. Dinner is usually (not always, as my bloated stomach will attest to) a light affair consisting of the equivalent of an antipasto with perhaps a soup.

As Americans, we have a hard time appreciating the central role of "eating" in the Italian culture. The country just shuts down at lunch time (I - 3 or 4 PM). In the countryside don't expect to find a gas station or a store open because there won't be. Plan accordingly. Breaking bread with friends and family is one of the most endearing traits of Italian (and Mediterranean) culture for me. We have two wonderful sayings in Italian that perfectly express my feelings on this institution: Chi mangia da solo si strozza. (He who eats alone, strangles.) A tavola non si invecchia. At the (dining) table one doesift grow old.

Language: I was fortunate enough to speak Spanish before I went to Italy. This certainly gave me a running start. However, as I soon learned, the two languages are not as nearly similar as they first appear. If you speak Spanish get a simple Italian grammar book so you can compare and contrast the conjugations and identical (or nearly so) words that are either identical in meaning or with totally different meanings (see footnote below). Foreign languages are not widely spoken in Italy. Today, many, if not most, young Italians have studied some English. However, you!ll do yourself a big favor if you learn some Italian and bring your own little grammar book and dictionary with you. Every bit of Italian you learn will render your visit infinitely richer.

Footnotes: 1. Ufflzi: this is the kind of word that can give foreigners fits. Uffizi is the antiquated plural of the word for "office", ufficio (pl: uffici). If you're a Spanish speaker, you know oficina means "office". Lo and behold, we have the same word in Italian but, careful, here it means "garage" or "workshop". Similar curve balls are: pronto which is "soon" in Spanish but "ready" in Italian. salir (salire in Italian) which means "to leave" in Spanish but "to climb" in Italian, or tener (tenere in Italian) which means "to have" in Spanish but "to hold" in Italian. You can imagine the stares I got when I asked people, "do you hold the time".

2. Bar: I don't know how this English word became adopted by the Italians, but do not confuse it with our concept of a "bar". These are fully lighted establishments where you can get candy, sandwiches, ice cream, coffee, and, yes, alcoholic drinks. There are frequently game rooms for both kids and adults associated with a bar. In short, it's a neighborhood social center. Children, families, and foreigners mix freely. There is no control of the sale of alcohol to children but I have yet to see this freedom abused.

Gabriella joins me in our hope that your stay in Tuscany will be one of the most unforgettable vacations of your lifetime. If we, in any small measure, have assisted in that experience, this is our reward. Please do not hesitate to contact us if we may be of any further assistance.